Gilmore asked artisan producers De Palma (thats us) to make a slow-cured salami from the famed Berkshire black pig, using lots of fat and lots of salt – no garlic, no fennel, no chilli – and plenty of good, old-fashioned time. The genius lies in the pouring of a clean, luminous broth made from the salami itself over the finely ruffled, sliced salami, allowing the heat to soften and melt the pure white fat. Sweetly fragrant, it is somehow reminiscent of a nonna's tortellini in brodo, without the tortellini.